CAKE | 04 — Into the woods

8:20

It took three trains and almost two hours to arrive at Mitake Station. The first two were sardine cans. School children of all ages in uniforms and people heading to work wearing polyester business attire. Crammed in. I’m definitely standing out and not only because of my hiking boots. 

When I was getting on the last train suddenly about two dozen old people in beige safari hats and hiking pants appeared out of nowhere. Feeling like I have been up for at least six hours.

8:30

On the local bus to the cable car now. Filled with hikers who look very serious and well prepared. I am the only tourist in sight. And my backpack is the smallest.

9:01

On the cable car now. The older man next to me is showing me photos on his phone of the peaks he had hiked. One of them is in Nagano and covered in snow. きれい。Very pretty. He is also heading for Okutama. Probably a walk in the park for him. Elevation 600 m.

9:11

And so it begins. At elevation 853 m. Off to 御岳山 or Mt. Odake for me.

10:27

Hiked about 3.6 km. It’s hot. And hard. And beautiful. I am mostly by myself. I do encounter an elderly person here and there. Hiking must be Japanese seniors’ favorite past time. But the ones who were with me on the cable car sped off into the woods like there was no tomorrow. Never to be seen again.

Other than the oncoming traffic, i.e. a random Japanese senior citizen it’s just me and the birds. Still 2 km to the summit as I took a detour to see some rock garden. Not what it’s cracked up to be. No garden. Just rocks, really. And a small waterfall that is probably more impressive in the spring. Marketing dissapoints again. Elevation 920 m.

10:57

Elevation 1060 m. Hiked 4.8 km. Drained in sweat. The steep part begins.

11:43

Arrived at the summit of Mt. Odake. I can only see Mt. Fuji if I squint. Or zoom in on the photo I took of the elevation marker. It’s gorgeous. But the last 200 meters of elevation were super steep. Mostly rocks. Having a sandwich now. And some juice and water. Actually wondering whether I should continue to Okutama or go back to Mt. Mitake. The hike took me 2.5 hrs and I walked the distance of 5.9 km. If I walk to Okutama I probably won’t arrive before 4 pm. Apparently the hike down the ridge feels never ending. The conbini sandwich was a revelation.

Of course, I forgot my epi pen. I do have those two pills my doc gave me that I should take to combat a possibly deadly allergic reaction when stung while without an epi pen. Doing slaloms with wasps. What’s life without a little risk?

12:50

Hiked for 3.5 hrs and am now at 8.3 km. I did start walking to Okutama after all. Feeling a bit scared as I am all alone. The trail signs from Mt. Odake on are now solely in Kanji. And my legs are in flames. Slipped several times and every time it could have ended badly if I didn’t have my hiking sticks with me. Regarding them as my new deity now. Almost at Mt. Nokogiri. 

13:00

Reached Mt. Nokogiri and perused the little benches to lie down for a while. Elevation 1109 m. Inhaling and exhaling. Snacking. Never has a banana tasted so good.

It’s tougher than I thought but it’s breathtaking. Being alone out in the woods is exhilarating. No one can hear me here. Only the trees. And the butterfly who was accompanying me for a while. The fear has all but vanished. I have never been as much at peace with myself as right now. The difference between the grandeur of everything that is surrounding me and the meaninglessness of all the things occupying my mind all day long is astounding. I am in pain but I have never been so calm.

An older Japanese man joined me on the top in taking a break. We‘re both eating an onigiri. I asked him how long he needed from Mitake to here. In broken Japanese, mind you. Took a while for us to understand each other but he said he hiked for four hours. Same as me. Hm. Even though I have taken the detour through the oversold rock garden. Can’t be right.

13:57

I have been taking breaks on and off. My legs are actually shaking when I stand still. The hike is rough on my calves as some parts consist of rock formations - as will probably my body once I’m done here. Every rocky trail feels insurmountable when standing in front of it. I let out a “Fuck!” every time but then step by step I manage to surpass it. Incredibly rewarding.

14:43

I keep checking my GPS app. It’s still so long to go. I have been hiking for over 10 km now. 3 km or so to go. I am slowly descending.

15:38

I thought I’d made it. Reached some sort of a parking lot. But the trail continued at the end of it. A big red gate welcomed me to more steps upwards. Turned out to be the meanest stretch of the whole trail through steep stone and rock formations I have not expected. Didn’t know where to place my feet to continue. One badass balancing act after another led me to a tiny shrine on top of a steep hill - and then back down again over more rocks. Whoever hiked this trail to worship in the past had to be really into praying. I didn’t pray. Did take a photo and pressed on.

15:47

The most excruciating part is seeing and hearing the village and the river rushing through Okutama but still being so far above it. 

Descending through some incredibly tall pines now. Slowly saying my goodbyes to the forest. Am grateful for having almost made it. And for not having been stung by a wasp.

16:04

It has never felt so good to walk on asphalt. I finally reached the road. Crossing the red bridge over the Tama river now. On my way to the onsen. My body is aching. I smell so bad, yet I feel so good that I’m laughing to myself. My legs are moving as slowly as those of an 88 year old woman. According to Gaia, my GPS app, I covered 14.93 km in 7 hours and paused for 1.18 hrs.

18:11

The onsen water healed my body. It felt good to wash the sweat and dirt off. I sat down on a tiny plastic chair in a row with other women in front of a long mirrored wall and showered. Then I went outside and climbed into the hot bath. The onsen was surrounded by trees and I could see and hear the river below us. It was magical. The three other women in the tub were wearing small wet towels on their heads, chatting and laughing with each other. I could hear the subdued voices of the men talking behind a tall wooden wall on the other side of our onsen. Not understanding them surely added to the charm of this scene.

Submerging my body in the onsen water felt almost holy. We were all naked. It felt so communal. So pure. It sounds silly, I know. But there was nothing to think about other than being grateful. Forgot to cover my tattoo with a bandaid. Luckily I don’t exude yakuza.

Incidentally the only non-Japanese person I have encountered all day was a woman from Hamburg at the onsen. From Uhlenhorst of all places. She is visiting the area with her boyfriend and has lived in Tokyo for the past ten years. We exchanged phone numbers and I hope we get to see each other again. What are the chances. We chatted at the soda machine while I was emptying a small bottle of milk, apparently a very popular drink after a visit at the onsen. おいしいかった。

The trip ended with Christine and her boyfriend giving me a ride to the train station. Amazed at how quickly we got there. I am now waiting for the first of four trains that will take me back to Shimokitazawa. Looking forward to slurping hot ramen and to a cold beer once I am home. 

The next day

6:57

My calves are killing me. Luckily I like my muscles sore - and my life hard.

I don’t know why I did it. It was my first solo hike. My very first day hike. The only time I hiked before was with J and a friend in the Smokies. A short walk compared to today’s ordeal. Especially with nobody to rely on but myself. But there was something in the air back in Tennessee that made me come back for more. I can’t quite describe the scent. But it smells divine. And it makes you tear up. Whatever the trees were effusing, I wish I could take it home with me. But maybe I am.